Chanel chugs into the future with a look back at Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel is moving frontward. Or at least trying to. How else to view the fact that for the get-go Chanel resort show since the decease in Feb of Karl Lagerfeld, its longtime designer, the house had reimagined a Parisian railway station?
"You accept to move, to travel, to surprise," Lagerfeld one time said. "Traveling informs youth, and what'due south so fun is the energy." So said a man who congenital an airport last, a prowl ship and fifty-fifty a rocket launchpad as sets for his Chanel rail shows, the meliorate to transport guests from i fantastical destination to the side by side.
Then with a strict difference time of 9am on Friday (May 3), guests arrived to find that a string of lavish custom-congenital dining cars had pulled into the upper salons of the Grand Palais, Lagerfeld's long-favored bear witness site, transformed for the moment into a beaux-arts terminal, complete with platforms and an elegant cafe.
It should be noted here that way has always loved a train, including the Diorient Express that opened John Galliano'southward autumn couture bear witness for Christian Dior at Gare d'Austerlitz in 1998 and Marc Jacobs' Louis Vuitton Limited that chugged its way into Paris Fashion Calendar week in 2012.
For the Chanel 2006 prowl show in New York, Lagerfeld took over a restaurant in Grand Central Terminal. But 13 years subsequently, back on home turf and under the creative direction of Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld's quondam right mitt, Chanel decided to up the spectacle dues to mark the first of its next chapter.
Start, editors, buyers and clients took their seats at white-clothed tables, feasting on the scene of golden age glamour (as well equally hearty argent-service breakfasts of summertime berries, croissants, scrambled eggs and orange juice).
Next, their journeying took them downward ornately arched iron staircases scattered with palm trees to a vast concrete concourse, where they were directed by station porters in navy caps to the life-size platforms that ran alongside railroad tracks. Each bore slatted benches and a station sign for a sunny destination in an exotic clime: Venice, Rome, Istanbul and Saint-Tropez.
Then, with a loud strike of the station clock and a precipitous blow of the station principal'due south whistle, a procession of lxxx models steamed onto the runway, unveiling a drove that crossed multiple historical and geographical boundaries, with 1 mutual value: Comfort. Come across, for example, waxed jackets with pockets and flared pants inspired by vintage workmen's uniforms, and hooded trench coats paired with white Victoriana blouses or bows.
There were enough of signature Chanel tweeds on display, atop chiffon vests embroidered with flowers or sequin bustiers (and occasionally some rather dubious flared leather shorts). To close, there was a series of informal evening sheath dresses in graphic pastel prints or delicate lace.
It was a pretty show, with some new lightness, though predominantly a loyal continuation of legacy. When Viard appeared to take her bow, her eyes were filled with tears. Sometimes, even when ane is adamant to expect to the future, it can be hard to resist a fleeting glance back.
(Text by Elizabeth Paton c.2019 New York Times)
READ: Who is Virginie Viard, the woman replacing Karl Lagerfeld equally head of Chanel?
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Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/style/chanel-s-future-virginie-viard-look-back-at-karl-lagerfeld-251131
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